Ben Shieldaig

This post has not a lot to do with Rona, but still it may be of interest.

North End of Glen Shieldaig

Early on this year when discussing ‘Peatland Restoration’ whilst visiting Shieldaig I heard mention of a ‘Road to Nowhere’. I had been talking about the crazy amount of money (£265Million) that was being spent on supposedly restoring moorland, peat hags in particular and my experience on a recent visit to a Stalkers meeting at Glenquioch where a demonstration was being laid on for the group. When my Shieldaig friend suggested that was what was going on at Ben Shieldaig/Loch Damph, knowing the area, I wondered as it was in my experience very thin ground, a boulderfield, not a peat moorland?

The demonstration at Glenquoich was very informative as the contractor explained the contracts. He is in the business of making money for sure that is his business so no slight on him but the whole thing borders on the bizarre. There we were on a cold hillside, feeder stags behind us, miles of road round the loch and a digger slicing peat from one piece of moor and laying it on another. Saving the peat/moor and getting great access to the job over the miles of road, yes you guessed right over and through the peat moor.

Apart from the madness of this a big part of this huge amount of money could be, in my opinion be better spent on building houses, creating crofts, restoring our road surfaces in Scotland in the right places for all the people paying way over the top rents, car tax etc, such as on Skye.

The other thing that came into my mind was that if this were to be a drought summer a lot of the ‘shifted’ peat turves would curl up and die. But so far this summer that has not come to pass (lucky for those with these schemes). Reprofiling peat on moors that has naturally eroded over centuries or since moors were part of the landscape is in my mind madness. For sure the drainage ditches on some moorland should receive attention. Those that promote this Government’s cash giveaway would do well to read Dr James Fenton’s seminal work on peat in his two volumes.

Which leads me back onto Ben Shieldaig and Loch Damph.

Moving on from peat but it will become part of the issue. The ‘Road to Nowhere’ that my local friend was intrigued about and no one it seemed that he knew had any knowledge of what it was about. Anyone seeking planning permission for housing has to inform those affected, here it seems that nobody knew. Most likely there was ‘something ‘ in the papers but who sits scanning papers nowadays for planning applications of new forests. However a new forest planting is what it is. So two diggers working on this road for months intriguing locals was for access.

And what a road complete with fake farm tracks.

I see from the Ben Shieldaig Management Plan Map that there is no mention of a road, access track yes, but this is a road worthy as a main road and as a far as I can see it comes to a dead end and although we drove a good way in, we did not venture to the end where I am led to believe it finishes against a cliff? From the other side I did not see it ending up at the Lochside but the roadend may be shielded by the terrain.

Flushed trees (plugs) for planting.

On my visit here in April it seemed a little late to be planting especially as the hardwoods were well flushed in the bags at the side of the road, but it was still April, so I guess just made it but the there were trees there in bags in May I am reliably told. Fingers crossed for a wet summer. But the issue here on stepping out of the car was that I was standing looking at a boulderfield and apart from the usual tree suspects, Oaks in the bags. Wrong Trees, wrong place. The area we stopped in was mounded as was a large part of this fenced off area, the mounds were very light and even in April, dusty. There had been planting and at my feet were trees planted close together. Poor planting but there had been a Media splash a week or so before with all sorts planting a tree here and there so I can only conclude that this was planting from the photo op. I cannot see seasoned planters doing this.

Very Small planted Birch and Scots Pine

I may ramble on a bit here but first impressions after driving past the famous Scots Pine at the end of Glen Shieldaig then the Birch forest between Shieldaig and the Balgy Burn is why has the well established Birch wood not spread further round to the East. Of course deer and sheep will get the blame, I do not know the crofting history here, but it is strange that a Birch wood of this size and seed source has not expanded. Is it because the ground going Eastwards is so poor? Or out of the sun, or more North facing. Would be interesting to find out and I wonder did the company brought in to design this project ever wonder?

The Birch Wood with High Pines between Shieldaig and Balgy, Nothing beyond.

So why plant here when the latest craze is for rewilding/regeneration which I would interpret as leave it to nature, had it something to do with the huge grants available which negates rewilding. If you interfere and set up huge planting schemes it is not rewilding, why not fence it off and regenerate it naturally, do not burn diesel making a road to nowhere, nor waste time and money on trees and planters, planting trees on thin soil/peat. I would suggest these trees are doomed, I may be wrong but without continued intervention, weeding, fertilising and beating up it will fail, especially the oaks. It is a Boulderfield and far from ideal ground. On our short drive I saw two very straggly holly trees, one coming out of a rock where a Blackbird sometime long ago had planted the seed.

Anyway if you have got this far with my ramble on about the Woodland Trusts planting at Loch Damph/Ben Shieldaig you may wonder why I brought it up on my blog. With the bad schemes I hear about Brewdog’s Kinrara and Muckrach’s huge scheme going awry, I thought I should note this one. There are better commentators than myself out there and questions are being asked.

It seems speaking to local people in the Shieldaig area that there is unease over the Woodland Trust’s Scheme. Comments range from “they are no better possibly worse than the old Lairds” They do not employ any locals” Pick ups and cars coming for a day out gives nothing to the economy” “where are the local jobs”, it goes on and on. Come on Woodland Trust think about the local population, you can do better than a few walks with picnic tables and a car park.

Would you want this view obscured by trees supposing they did grow.

What a view.

For me the fence, the gates, the road are all destroying the very thing that they are trying to conserve. Just employ a full time stalker, supply a house and the equipment that he or she needs, let them go onto the ground every working day, monitoring, culling deer to manageable levels and let the trees do what they have managed for centuries.

The Woodland Trust should buy multiple copies of Dr James Fenton’s book Landscape Change read it and just stop to think about what they are doing here.

Just as an add on but referred to previously here is a picture I have just found of Dr James Fenton’s two volumes on peat, very interesting.

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Looking Back Over May into April

Off and On Rona This Week

We had a wee trip over to see friends in Shieldaig, part of that was to visit kishorn boat yard to see the engineers there and also to have a look at a new Woodland Trust forest where the local’s were wondering what ‘The Road to Nowhere’ was actually for. More of that later. But in the meantime we remembered Calum the stag, this was a couple of years back and he looked terrible then but the reason I have posted this is that I saw a photo of him on FB and he looked really Bad, I hope I can find it and enlarge on why stags that reach this stage would be better culled rather than fed digestives, crisps and the odd applecore. Found the photo.

Calum In Poor State

The photographer who took this photo is an ex- employee of Nature Scot and he was very disappointed to see this stag wandering about the layby, with no teeth and looking the worse for wear. I understand he is not being culled as he is a tourist attraction? On the same week this photo was taken two deer controllers were spotted heading out to the hills (at the end of March which is outrageous/leave the deer in peace boys? ) on Neighbouring Nature Scot Beinn Eighe nature reserve. Although this layby where Calum stops may be on the border between them and the National Trust. Either of them should do the decent thing.

Back to Rona and we were out on the boat and spotted the first of the Kayaker groups to visit in the season, these guys were camping on Raasay and we suspected they would arrive on Rona soon.

More maintenance after the boat run and a feel at the bottom of the outboards in the water told me the anodes did not exist anymore. So ashore it came and I replaced them quickly before the tide came back in. This boat fairly goes through the anodes and that is part of its problem, the hull is suffering from erosion and I imagine it will not last much longer. But it is no shame to it, it has been a very good boat for the Island, one of the best investments.

Grabbing an hour the next day I planted up 100 Scots Pine in the extended block put up by Grant our new lad, beside the path. To give a bigger plantation, interestingly there is not much regeneration in this 10 year old or so fenced block./ But therein lies the rub, the soil on Rona is very poor, compacted and very difficult for trees to get down to the iron pan to get the minerals they need to grow.

Just to reinforce that last statement here is a wee family of Red Deer on Rona enjoying the sun on a cool day, surviving on very poor moor. Deer and sheep are about the only animals that will return good protein in such poor conditions, they have adapted very well to living on this type of ground especially with the re-generation readily available but it is interesting again to see Red Deer out on this ‘poor’ ground and often in the bogs picking away at the plants they like selecting.

Another maintenance excercise, the wind turbines were serviced by Bryn who was here helping for two months last year. But it was post winter and I thought it a good idea on a calm day to check the Big Harbour one out. It was Grant’s firszt time servicing them so we took them down and I showed him the various parts to grease and replace. He quickly did the service and put the turbine back up. It is now 21 years old and as good as the day it came with little in the way of replacement parts. Well done the late Ken Proven for building such a simple design.

And sure enough at the end of the day the kayakers rocked up, taking on water and venison. The leader whose name escapes me has been coming with groups to Rona these last 20 years. Not just for the venison.

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | 1 Comment

Looking Back Over May into April.

Rona Portree/Portree Rona April 27th

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | Leave a comment

Looking Back Over May into April

Still in April, a lot of catching up to do I see!!

Tufty

Here is Tufty, a young calf cast out by her mother last year. We think her mother had no milk for her and as they do when that happens they push the calf away. I have seen what I suspect is her mother pushing her away as do the rest of the group here, but she survives. Stunted, but we will see how she gets on. I bought a bag of feed for her this winter as she has become something of a pet. Not a good idea, but there does not seem to be much growth going on. Anyway she also gobbles up the vegetable peelings we put out for her.

Collared Dove

Another of our locals, our single Collared Dove. There were two but the Sparrowhawk hit this ones mate and killed it at the back door of the Lodge many years ago, since then this single Dove returns every year to same place. I do not know where it spends its winter but I read that they are non migratory. But he/she is always here in the Spring, I guess looking for its Mate. The Raptors have a heavy impact on the birds of Rona.

22 year old batteries

Moving on from the wildlife, it is all about maintenance at this time of year, pre-season. These batteries have had a few replacements as you can see, mostly they are original Hawker batteries, the best of British, they have lasted well beyond their expected life cycle. But the time comes when they need replacement and it is not a job we look forward to. Apart from the cost (electric car owners beware). These are the cottage generator shed ones and have not had too hard a life, possibly resulting in a longer life with smaller occupancy. But getting the same quality to-day has proven difficult in the past.

In April there was a lot of time spent sorting out the Dry Hasrtbour power supply. We had intended for years to instal Solar and that might still happen but not by me as I head to my retirement years. But in the meantime we replaced all the wiring in the Dry Harbour shed, with a new board and more up to date equipment, thank you Hugh Piggot of Scoraig Wind for his invaluable help, as always.

It was a good job that had been in the plan for a while and it makes life so much easier with internet access to the Victron Cerbo unit, showing us exactly what is going on.

The weather I see during this week of the 16th April was not the best with some rain but we were moving into late Spring so no surprise to have April Showers.

Chimney Maintenance

During the last real gale we were watching the windows flexing when all of a sudden there was a loud bang and clattewr as something came off anmd shot across the roof, I found the chimney can next day away in the forest. It was a Chinese Hat type, temporary cowal fitted after a gale two years ago, so it did well. But we had ordered a new one and it is always a pleasure to go on the roof (at my age!!)

Job with a good view from the office, I see a yacht in the background perhaps the non payer ‘Yacht Lotus’, his excuse I remember was that it said on the buoy £15 per night so as he did not stay on it all night he felt he did not have to pay. We do hope he enjoys his round Britain trip on the cheap.

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | Leave a comment

Looking Back Over May into April.

Deer Count 2 April 11th

I will keep this one brief, it was a while ago now and I could consult my notes but the day after our first outing counting deer, the weather broke. So the 10th of April was a no no. Not ideal as it is best to count two days running in case of deer movement but on Rona we kind of know where the pockets of deer will be and although the hinds are difficult to identify it is not impossible. Also we were starting well away from where we finished on the 9th. So there was a distance between the areas North and South.

I did go out briefly on the 10th just around Dry Harbour as we had the wind behind us when we came home through there the day before and saw nothing. I saw a handful of deer there that morning, a good sized group took off in front of me in the big forest at Dry Harbour. But it was not a definitive count or numbers, possibly a dozen deer seen that were definitely not counted the day before.

Thinking back to the day with Mark on the hill I remember it was a really good day for counting, the deer were out and about after the dreich day before. There were not a lot of deer about but groups here and there made up the numbers on the day to 65.

Some interesting moments when the first 4 deer a couple of hinds, calf and follower were spotted only to become 6 after walking for 40 minutes to another point and looking back to see the had increased. There were few deer on the flats (SW Corner) where it would have been better to count them on open ground and in contrast there were plenty groups around the birch tree edge.

There were a couple of memorable moments when we took lunch above An Tempuil, nothing showing out on the ground we were looking over. Then out of nowhere we saw a group of 6, joined by a group of 7 coming out of another birch edge to feed. Spying them whilst eating our lunch two stags appeared out of nowhere in the middle of a bog, they must have been laying down. Amazing how they appear and disappear.

The next was when we were heading home and I had previously spotted a young staggie lying on a knoll in the middle of the birch wood, I was sure he was a member of a much larger family group. As we approached the area the wind shifted and as we peeked round the corner deer were disappearing over the knoll and getting away, impossible to count and as I watched them another three came out of another birch copse, deer central all of a sudden.

We hurried along to a much higher point and when we got there we spotted this group heading across the flats, the stag I had first seen in the middle, a good stag we had not seen before with them and a total of 13 in the group. 65 deer counted in total on the day. So a good way to finish and looking at the numbers round the home parks/forests I guess we have in excess of 150 deer possibly 200 on Rona with a healthy bpopulation of stags on Raasay that come ‘back’ to Rona in September going into October.

All in all an excellent count and now that we are heading into June we will head out to see if we can see any new calves to get an idea of recruitment, it should be interesting.

A big thank you to Mark for his help. Even although he was on holiday.

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

It is that ‘Time of Year’ again.

Summer is here, the yachts have started arriving in numbers and Jim, my pal from N Ireland has been on the phone. Where’s the Blog? There has not been one since early April!!! Well here we are, the midgies are bad outside (our other summer visitor), there is stuff to do inside as I head off on an adventure tomorrow but to-day I will try to get up to date with the blog.

Yacht Eshe From Cowes

I am not sure how many yachts we have had to date, we have been away for a few breaks but I am sure that we are up to around the thirty mark. Some early sailors like Yacht Eshe have caught the calm sunny days (and a few gales too).

The Moorings were full last night.

The moorings were full last night with MV Aphros from Ireland a regular visitor coming in late. Rob only comes to buy our venison burgers, but for sure they love the quiet anchorage and the large Tamnavuillin in the Bothy (Celebrating the Scottish cup win by Celtic!!!!!!).

The Volcanic Rocks Never Cease to Amaze

We took a chance to check our fleet of creels (all three of them) at Dhu Chamas at 5pm, fishing for an hour catching nothing but a few tugs and losing the obligatory lures and weights. But the sun was shining and the water calm, the new boat getting another run out.

Trotternish

The scenerey as always was stunning with a mist over Trotternish and lovely shafts of light over Lealt as we headed home.

Swimming Weather

I had a swim in the late afternoon, the water decidedly warmer than it has been for a while, no seals swimming with me just out round Yacht Eshe and back, very refreshing.

MV Aphros Leaving Early for a Sunday.

And so it goes on MV Aphros left reasonably early followed by Yacht Eshe then the other boats I am sure will not be long behind them. As I speak another yacht (a wee one) has just come into the bay, maybe it will be a bumper season.

More looking back over the past few weeks, coming very soon.

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Deer Count 2024

The last couple of years the deer count has not been done in the traditional way over two days. Covid put an end to our regular count and since then we have used observations from the end of the hind season whilst out and about to assess the cull potential.

This year we had planned a big effort to find out more or less exactly how many deer we had, but circumstances yet again did not allow for a good group of people to be out over two days walking the Island. So yesterday it was down to two, myself and Mark (on holiday) who has helped many times before. Grant is away on a course and Wayne who was wanting to come back could not get away from his Estate with commitments backing up there.

As it happened we went out yesterday on a grey cold day, not expecting much as the deer would be sitting tight, however the sun did come out occasionally and it turned out a good day after all.

Pano’ of the North Harbour

We headed North into the wind and parked the bike in the valley running North, we walked out to the North East immediately spying deer, a good sign. The ground is pretty dry by Rona standards but it has been a kind winter here in the West.

We headed up the North East side keeping to the tops, unlike stalking we were looking to ‘lift’ the deer. Walking a distance apart and in radio contact we would let each other know if anything scarpered.

Heading North East I spotted quite a few hinds calves and followers dotted about, walking over a ridge onto a couple of groups lying down in the small copses of birch almost immediately. Thinking about the current craze for rewilding/regeneration and trees planted it seems anywhere. I mused how this walk had not changed at all in the 22 years of my time on Rona. Quite simply there is no real regeneration with little herbivore impact. There were at one time 500 sheep on Rona and then a gap, quite a gap where trees would have certainly got away. Of course when it was heavily populated in the 1900s all sorts of stock would have been resident, but I guess more cattle. However they did not and now with a good population of Red Deer now it would be easy to blame the deer for this but that is simply not the case and the reason the trees do not grow is because of several factors, exceptionally poor ground and the weather for a start. The photo ‘Poor Ground’ is exactly as it was all those years ago when I came. There had been a big fire the length of Rona in the past 30 years which should have helped at least the Birch and possibly was part of the reason birch are very slowly colonising the ground but as I say, very slowly. The point being that on this type of West Coast hill ground, which is bvery common, the chances of any major tree cover is simply not there.

Moving on to the settlement of Braighe, passing either salt sprayed or windburnt birch that had made an effort to get out of the ground but eventually suffered at the hands of the elements (not the deer). On looking down on the settlement of Braighe, it is fascinating to see the workings of the settlements there and take in the tough life the people that lived there had to endure. On the third photo here there is a sole Scots Pine growing at the edge of the slope, LHS, possibly a cone was dropped by a bird or a seed was airborn from some distant tree, but there it is a Scots Pine and in good condition as I guess it is reasonably sheltered. Just round that corner in another sheltered valley is a stand of Aspen, with easy access for herbivores. It is common to say that Aspen were lucky to be in non accessible areas because I read about such stands but on Rona they grew well in easily accesible areas where sheep and cattle had been present. So it is not all doom and gloom for regeneration, but given no seed source anywhere near here, how did that Scots Pine happen. No deer to be seen in this area but plenty marks.

On musing about peatland restoration, here are a few images of the workings from a hundred years ago of peat banks far from the houses. It must have been quite a carry to get the peat home over such poor terrain. I hear that diggers are grading, filling in and shaping some if these old peat workings, crazy! The whole principle of peatland restoration is in my opinion madness, a read of the work of Dr James Fenton would be a reasonable place to start before sending diesel guzzling diggers into the hills to play at gardening. For sure there are drains that were dug in the last century in an attempt to turn moorland into farmland (unsuccesful) that now are part of the increased reason of flooding. There are places but filling in and shaping peat hags that occurred naturally, not sure that is doing any good. Doing the same to old peat workings and blaming deer for peatland damage is nonsense, I see these statements coming from the conservation lobby all the time. Just look around and take time to think about it. But therein lies the problem. Those shouting loudest will not get out onto these hills much and if they do they certainly will not get into the many corners your average stalker (or deer counter ) will, week on week, year in year out.

The last picture there is a deer wallow, a bath in other words. Now the conservationists yet again would scream, DAMAGE! But this is a totally natural thing for deer to do, the same as pigs/wild boar would do. For me it screams a perfect environment for the most beautiful dragonflies that Rona produces in spades year on year. Give me the dragonflies, leave the gardening digger at home.

I would just like to say that this is only a tiny part of what the average Sporeting Estate Stalker does, it is an enjoyable part as is stalking or proper deer management. We are maintaining the herd in good order and putting in the hours doing that, not just going out and shooting the first deer that we see. Which is what a lot of Quasi Non Governmental Organisations consider deer management (also Forestry Companies/FLS), a shoot to kill policy. They do it on land where deer were managed as a herd for generations, there is no slow reduction of a totally natural animal with a social structure to the herd, the desire is to wipe out the herd. The reasons, in my opinion is nothing to do with the deer but everything to do with targetting Sporting Estates. Shame on them for using a wild animal to do this.

Finally on this subject, I am as likely to be fixing the internet, the boat, the generator, the million other things we have to do here. Do the quangos have staff doing this sort of work on their Estates, living on the land, connecting on the land, I think not a big percentage? Seems to me coffee shops are their big thing.

Moving on towards the Lighthouse for lunch, I swapped with Mark taking the West side, him the East, he quickly came onto hinds and calves. I got a call, so sat down to take it. Right next door to this impressive Juniper and then all around I saw more, quite green as the spring and slightly warmer weather seems to have woken them up. This one in particular was pretty vibrant. The valley is quite sheltered but yet again the trees fail to make any impression such is the sourness and wet ground. Whilst on the phone I spied across the valley onto some hinds on the peninsula East of the harbour. We would catch them later.

Coming over into the next corrie on the Easst side I spied hinds and a calf lying down, once I put the glass on them I spied my first big stag sleeping in front of a rock, He looked to have wintered well and was unaware that I was there despite the hinds being alerted and me coming over the Skyline.

Spot The Stag

We had our lunch and came back the way we had come so as to cross over into the wind to the North West corner for part two of the count. We came back along the path over the sleeping stag to find all of the deer still lying where I had left them. The hinds and calves took off but Mr Stag was in no hurry to go, how is it they just know it is not the seasaon for culling them (well at least not here despite Miss Slater’s open season). He evetually left but in no hurry. We had seen only three deer north of the lighthouse but were content with that knowing there were usually more out there. We would keep our energy for the next hike. Funnily enough the hinds were very flighty yesterday, maybe they got word of Lorna Slater’s plan to allow killing of them most of the year, looking at some of the big pregnant hinds it beggars belief that in Scotland so called conservationists would support the shooting of heavily pregnant hinds up to less than 9 days ago. What on earth are these people thinking of?

We got over the valley and pushed on up the hill, I thought I was getting fitter but that was a killer. But once up top the view was stunning and pockets of deer were popping up here and there, mostly hinds seen and looking none too bad. Good to see quite a few calves. A shower came in and we hunkered down, glad of the rest. But after it passed we got up and carried on past the Danish/Greek/Norwegian Princes/Princess’ grave. Pointing it out to Mark and telling him how the Vikings used to pull the boat of their fallen comrade up to a high point and facing North they set it on fire with the remains in it, a good story. But maybe why this pocket is so green, Certainly the ‘Ob’ lends itself to a very sheltered harbour and you wonder just what went on their becasuse there are workings at the narrows, a trap’, where I suspect fish would flow in to the round harbour there. Also the very flat piece of ground off to the NW of this harbour is intriguing, obviously worked and now a deer stand in the Rut. I guess we will never know.

With the wind right out on the North West, there was no chance of anything to see going home with it in our backs. So we were thinking of calling it a day but as we had seen quite a few deer approaching the spying point above the Big Birch Wood, we were keen to discount deer running forward whilst spying this area. But to our surprise it became deer central. With groups of deer reacting to our chatting moving about and we saw so many deer here I was even surprised. But the biggest surprise was a pack of good quality mature stags in exactly the same spot as myself and Bryn had seen in August last year. Ten or thereabouts, 6 of them very nice. This is encouraging for venison production in July and the stalking from September. The best bit was that this was only one third of the Island, counted.

86 deer counted over 6 hours.

10 km walked, a lot of spying.

Knackered, never been so!!!!

Screenshot
The Counter’s Notes

A footnote on Birch Regeneration:

A common occurance on Rona is, have the generations past that built the many dykes created the perfect seed bed for birch growth? Was it because of the soil disturbance all those years ago, the 500 sheep sheltering and dunging these areas, the shelter from the wind? The growth is phenomenol.

Ancient Hazel Blown Over

On to-day’s brief outing on the ATV to catch and count deer before the rain came I took a trip into the forest on the East side at Dry Harbour, this old Hazel has succumbed to the gales unfortunately but that is the nature of the forest that even in a dry year trees get blown.

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

After The Equinox

Well it is nearly the end of the month, another one under the belt and ther season for visitors to the cottages fast approaching. The moorings are in the signs are nearly up, the cottages nearly ready and we are totally relaxed (aye right).

Looking back it has been a busy month off and on the Island as Grant and Stacey get going with the spring work allowing us to head off to the annual deer meetings. More later. In the meantime here is the story this month so far.

The trouble with feeding deer is that they get impatient. Here’s ‘Tufty’ looking into the house first thing this morning, more or less saying hurry up, I’m hungry!!! He’s looking for the peelings, applecores and a few cobs for breakfast.🤣

I am going to be a wee bit lazy to-day and re-post my facebook posts of to-day so excuse the different fonts and differences, the content ois the same:

“A month of two halves, March. It is the time of year when the pressure should be off, holiday time, but no. Holiday time first then meetings, lots of them. With the Wildlife Management Bill going through Holyrood plus the next disaster coming from the Greens/SNP, the Managing Deer for climate and nature consultation. The usual Deer meetings this year took on a more important meaning. First it was off to Glenquioch for a ‘Finding the Common Ground Meeting, the next week the Association of Deer Management Groups AGM and finally the Scottish Gamekeepers Association Deer working group meeting. The SGA AGM I missed due to illness. All good, well attended meetings with very good content and discussion. It is a strategy of ther Scottish Government not to involve any of the people attending these meetings directly in their discussions apart from NGO/non government organisations. Why is that? Because they only want to hear what they want to hear in the Scottish Government nowadays. For me they should have those voices from the hills and glens who work in this field every day on their Committees/discussion groups.”

For the rest of the month, here is part of the story.

A wee boat trip a week ago, round the shore out to the Gap, plenty winter flotsam on the shores to be picked.

Seaflower was out of the water in Stornoway getting a refit of windows and a spruce up, so Tommy stepped up and took us back to Rona with our new fitness regime, a Reebok Treadmill!!!much to Tommy’s amusement.

We were lucky to stay on Skye in between trips to and from the many meetings and got to quite liking Earlish at the North end, Mike and Lorraine who have helped us many times in the past were our hosts, a highly recommended Bed and Breakfast.

Finally we came back to Rona last Saturday with Calum Stiven his partner Cat and the dog. He was over to sort out the Applenet system and confuse me with internet speak. But it was good to get some direction from him.

Good to be home now and preparing for the season, the last three weeks have seen many miles travelling about the country attending meetings. I cannot stress how much under threat the rural industries are from urban based politicians with no real life experience outside politics, who are being influenced by an anti shooting and an anti farming agenda.

I have just had an email from our American cousin Tom Opre, film maker and author of ‘The Last keeper” he has asked me if this line is correct from the Deer Consultation recommendations take from the John Muir Trust, he cannot believe it:

This will not end well.

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | Leave a comment

A Woodland Walk

At the end of the Winter it is always a thing to go over to the Acarseid Mhor (Big Harbour) Forest to check out winbdblow, to see how much plastic is on the beach (And in the forest). It is a must. So this Saturday after a glorious Friday a grey day took us to the Woods.

Not the best photo, the light was weak and this makes the forest look like it is predominantly Birch. But nothing could be further from the truth. If anything the Birch is invading the forest, for sure it is the only thing that gets away quickly but in this forest there are more questions than answers.

The ‘Planted’ Forest

The forest which has been described to me by the many visitors as naturally Scottish, true Re-Wilding, the way that all of Scotland should look like is none of the above.

The forest was planted by the owners way back most likely 180 years ago. I suspect the climate was much more benign than it is to-day. For one thing the pines on the other side of the hill there are very straight but the younger trees are much windblown. I am sure a scientist somewhere could explain but although there are some fine stands of Aspen, good holly, lots of Birch, the main species are a mix of hardwoods such as beech, sycamore and oak with larch quite common. See Stephen Bungard’s Blog on ‘The Flora of Raasay and Rona’ . Like many forests in Scotland it was established in the 1800s probably for shooting, there are records of Rona being a shooting destination back in the day when the man who planted the trees owned it: Edward Herbert Wood

Although I have to say I have heard good things about Herbert Wood, especially his wife.

But back to yesterday 2nd March:

There are a lot of granny trees here, (not Granny Pines as some of the Pine is actually Corsican , good for Maritime locations) much damaged by the wind, with lots blown over. A haven for mosses and all that the damp west coast climate will allow to grow. It is a magical place with a heronry, upwardss of 28 Herons, roosting Sea Eagles and in season all sorts of birds. Even woodpeckers.

I always wondered why there were so many dead pines on the windward side of this forest and only found out lately from a book I was reading (which I have since lost) that this area of dead pines are the result of a visitor starting a fire which got out of control but happily it went out before it could destroy the whole. The gallery below is the first part of our walk through the ‘big’ trees.

Coming down through the first part into a hollow there are outstanding beeches, some old oaks and one in particular where a branch had snapped off, leaving its leaves on until now.

I guess the wind never had a chance to blow them off. There are good signs of paths and workings throughout the area and you wonder what was there initially. I am positive there would have been a nice walk with views, perhaps benches, who knows, but in the middle of it there are still metal posts from the 150 old + years old fence. There are two here in the photo below.

Also in the photo there is this rock of white stone (Skye Marble) where did that come from? Who knows but there is a bit of an old dyke to the left of it so I guess when building the dyke the white rock was part of it, but no sign anywhere near where it came from. The dyke obviously was part of the fence that crossed this peninsula, but where it is does not make sense with regards to the forest growth ??

Just about to head of to the ‘beach’ when we spotted 5 deer watching us, they were across on the face above yet another working of runrigs, they are everywhere on Rona and gives some idea as to how the populatiuon at its peak tried to survive. 1900 200 souls!

It annoys me a bit when I hear Re-Wilders banging on about Nature Depletion, have these folk any conception of the population that lived on the land, scratching an existence, not a living by any means. Every Glen had much larger populations than now. Or the history that has gone before. I understand from my books here that post 1745 the Highlands were basically set alight. I rest my case.

The mosses, the lichens, the bogs, the fallen trees give the imnpression of a very wet climate and there is no denying it. But the drains are all filled in (naturally), the water has nowhere to go, it is after all a planted forest, so should it be managed or should it be left alone. I guess the guy that wrote the book on ‘Atlantic Rainforests (Guy Shrubsole) would class this as an ancient Rain Forest, Nope, it is not, but it is showing the classic signs of a West Coast forest. I understand a Rain Forest is a forest with continuous canopy?

Back to reality, Plastic!!!

Here is the reality of living in a windy, coastal site in Scotrland, plastic. Whether from boats, fish farms (the new polluters), or just blown off the land. Not to mention what comes from America. Every year we get festooned with plastic, when you take it to the Council dump they throw a fit, where’s your appointment they cry. For goodness sake do you want a clean country or not (for free I would add, as you are not paying me to collect it or deliver it to the dump) Rant over. But seriously the rubbish around Rona is shocking. We will have a major collection shortly, the first decent calm day and when we buy a new dinghy.

Nice to see the catkins getting going another sign of Spring coming, a wee bit rise in light and temp, excellent.

On route still to the beach, the birch is pretty dense and the ground was just like a sponge, great that the deer knock off the old branches from the birch, it certainly makes walking through the forest easier.

We did not get to the beach after all of that, the cliff was too wet and slippy for us to get over. I did not take a picture because the place where we go to the ‘Beach’ was pretty dirty with plastic, I should have but I was annoyed to see it and got ratty.

More later on our walk to-day.

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Spring Days

This week has been grim, wet and windy but nothung unusual. Pretty much steady gales as expected at this time. So when a sunny calm day happens what do you do. Well the most logical thing is to go and do all the outside jobs but on this occasion we decided the day had to be enjoyed. So after the basic tasks were completed and we took delivery of 30 round deer posts for our new planting block delivered by MV Seaflower we skipped lunch and headed out to the Gap. The stretch of water between us and Raasay.

The first wildlife we ‘bumped’ into was an Otter, quickly followed by a mature Sea Eagle directly above where the otter has scurried into the sea, whilst watching out for Mr Otter a Great Northern Diver popped up. She quickly swam away towards the Island at the mouth of Acarseid Mhor where the Stag and family that live there were out enjoying the sun.

Grant was reminding me about the Bamboo that is growing 100 metrees up from the shore on pretty poor ground, time for some action there.

There were a few deer on the tops but the next exciting moment was when we came upon a flock of Purple Sandpipers, very tame they say, well these were incredibly so.

Further along the coast Grant spotted a good old stag relaxing in the sun, quickly followed by a group on Eilean Garbh.

In this group our old friend, broken antler was the Boss. He had been rutting in the parks at Rona Lodge all October with some spectacular fights when young stags came sniffing about. He had obviously broken his antler off before he reached us as Grant picked it up over the winter a long way from Big Harbour.

So far we had seen a good number of deer on Rona, fingers crossed they will stay as we need the venison, our sales are going through the roof. Passing the Islands in the gap, seals were in numbers, Curlews, Oyster catchers and all the usual gulls, seabirds were knocking about. Good numbers for the time of year. We crossed to Eilean Tighe, checked out the Sea Eagles nest, there was not a lot of life there or any of the other nests but plenty eagles about.

We crossed to the Golden Eagles eyrie above the wooden shed on the top West side of Raasay (now needing felt). Where we saw another haul out of seals, plenty of them about at the moment.

There after we headed down to Fladda, to check on the Sea Eagles nest and have a quick check at Erlet and John Cater’s properties, we were happy to report no damage or problems. The usual windblown stuff and a few deer knockong about. Grant and Stacey had not been before so were fascinated with Fladda, it is a lovely wee jewel of an Island. On landing at the ladder in North Harbour we came across this old boy.

He was a right bag of bones, we felt he was looking weak and when he eventually moved off it was with difficulty, stiff and old, definitely a candidate for culling. Bit like myself.

Very skinny and stiff. After I came home and downloaded the pictures I was sure I had seen this stag before, with his distinctive antlers I was convinced he was what we called ‘TV screen.’ This was a stag that visited, I can see from my records in 2016. Of course his headgear has changed and is now what they would call ‘Going Back’. I remember he arrived and was very active that October on or around the 21st, on sunny warm days when we had had a late rut. A fine stag then, if it is him, amazing he has survived for so long. Apart from his age and he must be I reckon 12 to 15 years old, I wonder if he had a bad beating this last rut.

Since we butchered all our October stags this last year I can say I am amazed that the carcasses suffer so much damage and bruising in that month. Holes in the skin and holes with puncture woundswell into the meat, broken ribs are common, necks with puncture wounds and bruised all over are quite common too.

1st March 2024
October 21st 2016

He has such a distinctive head I am sure this is him in 2016. I bet he can tell a few tales, he will be well travelled.

The sun was out on Fladda, we had a look at the geological dykes and the Sandstone, an impressive geology destination, popular with many over the years.

Fladda Houses

One last photo of the cottages with Dun Caan in the background, one day I will get up there.

Back up Loch a Sgurr, impressed with the light on the rocks, more stags plus a couple of hinds now on Eilean Tighe and sea eagles floating in the air, there were plenty about.

Another highlight before we berthed, a Redshank in the back bay, lovely to see but only one, hoping for two. Stardust Boat trips were in with a full boat of happy visitors, the sun fairly brings them out.

MV Wavedancer

Finally, a hind and calf above the pontoon enjoying the sun deep in the heather, check out the calf’s ears.

Posted in The Views and of course the weather | 1 Comment